Chiang Mai Entrepreneurs

There's an ongoing 24/7 sidewalk display, of several caskets varying in quality, size, etc. in front of an open walk-in "coffin shop" on the street that bounds the north side of the moat in the old city.




The woman in the first photo is selling local drinks; you can see the young coconuts sitting on the blue shelf, filled with "green" coconut milk and soft pulp. The second pic is woman making banana pancakes, a favorite of Thais and foreigners.

This of one of countless sidewalk entrepeneurs in the old city. You can get your sandals fixed, your clothes patched, your backpack mended or whatever - while you wait or return the next day. You can get fresh-squeezed orange or carrot juice, home-made ice-cream, lottery tickets, cappucino, and buddha amulets. And there are hundreds of motorcycle repair shops that operate out of their own garage that extends out to the sidewalk while they live their homes attached to the shop.

I am always amazed at the ingenuity of the Thai (necessity being the MOI) and their ability to repair what would be tossed aside in the US. A neighbor in Chiang Mai just dropped his television remote off at a nearby sidewalk fixit guy and had it repaired for under a dollar. The same remote control would have just been thrown away at home.

This is a photo that Trudi took of a child sleeping on a bench. If you click on the image, you will be able to view it better. I love this photo.





This was one of my favorite coffee shops last year and I still like it but there's a new owner and the personality of the place has changed. [Plus they no longer sell bagels, but they do have free wireless so that's a plus.) If you are hungry, you can order almost any thai food and the order is taken across the street to a small shop. I often have stir-fried veggies and chicken for about 75 cents.




The old brick Chedi Luang used to be 90 meters high before it was partly destroyed in an earthquake in 1545; it was the tallest structure in Chiang Mai for over 500 years. It's now about 60 meters high. The other gold-leaf chedi is brand new, just built to replace the old brick one that collapsed after heavy rains two years ago. There is a niche on each side of the chedi, housing a 3 foot high Buddha. The wat now has a very elaborate tiled courtyard with cornerstone ornaments. And there are dozens of tables used often by thais and falangs tutoring one another. This is right acreoss from the AUA library.

I have wandered all my life, and I have also traveled; the difference between the two being this, that we wander for distraction, but we travel for fulfillment. - Hilaire Belloc

Nora Ephron NYT editorial on Google

The Chicken Soup Chronicles, January 13, 2008

The other day I felt a cold coming on. So I decided to have chicken soup to ward off the cold. Nonetheless I got the cold. This happens all the time: you think you’re getting a cold; you have chicken soup; you get the cold anyway. So: is it possible that chicken soup gives you a cold?

I will confess a bias: I’ve never understood the religious fervor that surrounds breast-feeding. There are fanatics out there who believe you should breast-feed your child until he or she is old enough to unbutton your blouse. Their success in conning a huge number of women into believing this is one of the truly grim things about modern life. Anyway, one of the main reasons given for breast-feeding is that breast-fed children are less prone to allergies. But children today are far more allergic than they were when I was growing up, when far fewer women breast-fed their children. I mean, what is it with all these children dropping dead from sniffing a peanut? This is new, friends, it’s brand-new new, and don’t believe anyone who says otherwise. So: is it possible that breast-feeding causes allergies?

It’s much easier to write a screenplay on a computer than on a typewriter. Years ago, when you wrote a screenplay on a typewriter, you had to retype the entire page just to make the smallest change; now, on the computer, you can make large and small changes effortlessly, you can fiddle with dialogue, you can change names and places with a keystroke. And yet movies are nowhere near as good as they used to be. In 1939, when screenwriters were practically still using quill pens, the following movies were among those nominated for best picture: “Gone With the Wind,” “The Wizard of Oz,” “Mr. Smith Goes to Washington,” “Wuthering Heights” and “Stagecoach,” and that’s not even the whole list. So: is it possible that computers are responsible for the decline of movies?

There is way too much hand-washing going on. Someone told me the other day that the act of washing your hands is supposed to last as long as it takes to sing the song “Happy Birthday.” I’m not big on hand-washing to begin with; I don’t even like to wash fruit, if you must know. But my own prejudices aside, all this washing-of-hands and use of Purell before picking up infants cannot be good. (By the way, I’m not talking about hand-washing in hospitals, I’m talking about everyday, run-of-the-mill hand-washing.) It can’t possibly make sense to keep babies so removed from germs that they never develop an immunity to them. Of course, this isn’t my original theory — I read it somewhere a few weeks ago, although I can’t remember where. The New York Times? The Wall Street Journal? Who knows? Not me, that’s for sure. So: is it possible that reading about hand-washing leads to memory loss?

I love Google. I love everything about it. I love the verb Google and I love the noun and sometimes I can even use the word as an adjective. For a long time, I liked to think there would some day be a person called the Google, a mixture of a researcher, an assistant and a butler, who would stand by ready to ride to the rescue at all Google moments. No more desperately trying to come up with the name of that movie Jeremy Irons was in, which lurks like a hologram while everyone makes stabs at figuring out what on earth it was called. We can never remember the name of that movie, the one about Claus von Bulow, but never mind — the Google is here. The Google will find the answer. But as it turns out, no Google is necessary. Somebody has a BlackBerry. The answer is seconds away! It’s here! The movie was called “Reversal of Fortune!” What a fantastic relief! On the other hand, I have to say, there was something romantic about the desperate search for an answer. On the road to trying to remember the name of Ethel Rosenberg’s brother, for instance, you might find yourself having a brief but diverting chat about Alger Hiss’s wife, which might in turn get you to a story about Whittaker Chambers’s teeth, which might in turn get you to Time magazine, which might in turn get you to Friday nights at Time magazine back in the old days, which might in turn get you to sex. This meandering had its charms. It was, in fact, what used to be known as conversation. But no more. Instead, we have the answer. Ethel Rosenberg’s brother was named David Greenglass. And that’s that. So: is it possible that Google will mean the end of conversation as we know it?

Nora Ephron, the author, most recently, of I Feel Bad About My Neck: And Other Thoughts on Being a Woman, is a contributing columnist for The Times.

Baan Chaang Nak - Elephant Carving Village

On New Year's day I visited Baan Chaang Nak in Samkampaeng with Dtuum and her brother. He is a friend of the master carver and sculptor of this village compound of unique and imaginative elephant art. This combination working studio, museum and showroom is well-known for the creative work of the artisans there who carve chunks of wood and scult heaps of concrete-like material into unbelievable renditions of elephants of every size and stance. Most of the sculpted elephants are lifesize and very realistic. The variety of talent and and creative results is amazing. To see photos and descriptions, view elephant album here.

The carver's daughter, a former student of Dtuum's brother who is an art teacher, showed us around the village answering many of my questions. The family was just completing an authentic lanaa style bamboo house on stilts. Every joint in this house was tied with bamboo or grasses - there were no pegs or nails. To see photos and descriptions view lanaa album here.

We joined the workers in traditional laap NY dinner (raw minced beef and spices) with local whiskey steeped in herbs. It was poured from a large jug filled with sticks and stems - instead of snakes, like Jim's whiskey in Laos.



Ganesha is the elephant-headed deity, Hindu god of success, known as the Lord of Beginnings and Lord of Obstacles, patron of arts and sciences, and the deva of intellect and wisdom.



We then visited a nearby Sa Paper and Umbrella making center which demonstrates the process including handpainting. Artists were painting delicate designs on what I would call parasols as well as painting colorful designs on your clothing. For photos and descriptions view painting here. (Soon)

Luang Prabang & Vang Viang

Jim writes: I arrived in Luang Prabang a couple of days ago. It's a UNESCO World Heritage Site and quite pleasant. I came here 10 years ago when it was much more charming, less touristy. [The fate of any interesting or beautiful destination today.] Even though the town is in a very remote location, it has turned into a hot spot for tourists from other countries. There are hundreds of guest houses, plenty of Western restaurants, art galleries, and various shops. I almost left the day after arriving, but changed my mind.

"It took two days to get here. The road is a series of switchbacks through a rugged mountain range. It compares with the Copper Canyon in Mexico and various regions of South America. The northern half of Laos is mostly mountains. Years ago, people got around by boat utilizing the MaeKhong and other rivers. Boat travel is still popular; much shipping is done between China and Thailand in this way.

"LP has surrounded on three sides by water. A smaller river draining into the Mae Khong accounts for this. The town is filled with wats, some of them quite ancient. It's a good place to walk around, which is what I've been doing since my arrival. Nights are quite cool, like in low 50's. Must wear extra clothes in the evening and morning. On the way to LP, I had to spend a night in a Hmong village high in the mountains. It was very cold there. I didn't have the right clothing and was pretty miserable. [Gig adds: It was so cold on the river when Tina and I were leaving LP three years ago on our two-day boat ride down the Maekhong, back to Thailand, we wore every article of clothing we could find in our packs.]

"LP is twice as expensive as any other place in Laos and this is peak season. Most of the guest houses were full between Christmas and New Years. The rates jumped up because of this. I see much evidence of greed. In checking various guest houses, I often was given a figure of $30. Then when I hestitated and laughed, they dropped to $10. These same places were charging $5, or less, last winter. Now you see more trucks and motorcycles. Everyone has a mobile phone. Many of the locals are giddy from all the money pouring in. It's a boom time, just as if gold had been discovered.

Here's a link to Photo Album that Jim took last week mostly while in Vang Viang, a popular village mid-way between Vientiane and Luang Prabang. The photos give a really accurate picture of rural life we experience here in SEA. [NOTE: For those of you with dialup, there is an option for photos to be smaller for an easier download.]

"The Laos people think whiskey laced with snakes in a jar is great stuff. They tried to get me to try some. I made it clear there was no way: 'This conversation isn't going anywhere.'"

"NYE parties started the day before. I attended several including two on the 31st that started in the middle of the day. They perform a dance, slowly going around in a circle. I joined them in the dancing. These people really like to party. I lasted a few hours late in the afternoon and then had to excuse myself."

PostScript: Luang Prabang is known for its palaces, temples, and religious statuary. The city has 65 Buddhist wats, recognized for their characteristically steep, overlapping roofs; sculpted wooden doors and shutters; colonnades, mosaics, paintings, and many other architectural details. The Pha Bang, a golden image of the Buddha that is said to have been cast in Ceylon in the 1st century AD, is housed on the Palace grounds. [These monasteries continue to house and educate young men.]

Christmas Party at ThaiThai Coffee

Today I went to a fun Christmas/New Year's get-together at House of Thai Thai Coffee which serves the best cappucino I've ever tasted. The gathering consisted of some of the staff and family, a few Thai instructors, some of their students and a few loyal customers - I think around 22 people. We had delicious Gaaeng Kiiao Waan Gai
(green chicken curry) with rice noodles, fresh raw basil and bean sprouts, a tasty spicy veggie ravioli, carrot cake, oranges and, of course, Thai coffee. [This is Ann, one of the instructors who has helped me a lot with my Thai.]

We brought small gifts (100 Baht or about $3) and drew numbers, presenting the gift to the person who drew our number with sà-wát-dii bpii mài (Happy New Year). We each introduced ourselves to the group - in paasaa thai (Thai Language), sharing name, where we were from, how long in Chiang Mai and what we were doing there. chăn chêuu Gail, chăn bpen kon American, phák yuu thîi nîi nai Chiang Mai sii deuuan, bpen aa-jaan gày-sĕe-yon láao, phák róorn bpai tîao láe gamlang khìían nãng-sèúua. I have no idea how many people understood me - but I knew what I was saying.

Thai Thai Coffee is a combination of three excellent litle businesses - coffee bar, language center and Thai Culture/Adventure touring.

Why do people travel? To escape their creditors. To find a warmer or cooler clime. To sell Coca-Cola to the Chinese. To find out what is over the seas, over the hills and far away, round the corner, over the garden wall. -- Eric Newby, A Traveller’s Life

Christmas in Maine and in Chiang Mai

Here's a photo of my family at Christmas in Whiting, Maine. My niece, Corina, Judy's husband Vern, brother Dave, Mom, Dave's wife Rob, Dad, Paul's wife Joyce, sister Judy, and nephew Paul. (More photos of snow in Whiting an end of this post.) Even though I am many miles away, I feel very connected to my family at Christmas when I see their photo each year. Part of me is still there with them (including sharing Christmas gin - see below). I don't know how to explain it, but I know if they were not all getting together, Christmas over here would not be the same for me.

Christmas is very low-key in Thailand although the Thai people do make an extra effort on Christmas Eve - they love to party. Many of the small, local bars put out buffet food for their customers to enjoy - items include roast potato (a big hit!), barbeque chicken, sweet and sour soup, sticky rice, spicy papaya salad, white wonder bread and vienna sausages. Still can't figure out why these are such a hit here but they are often served with breakfast. (yuk)

Jim wrote: I spent Christmas in Vientiane, the sleepy capitol of Laos. In the evening, drank some Beer Lao with a Kiwi couple and an Australian guy; then sat down with local high school students who were having a party. [Found out the legal drinking age for beer is 14!] Pretty quiet here. Am staying in a guest house not far from the Mae (River) Khong. Many backpackers roaming the streets. Met an American who moved here from San Diego 14 years ago. Said he was 50 at the time and could not find work, so headed to Vietnam. He was there during the Viet. War. and wanted to teach English, but could not get government approval. So, he ended up in Laos. There are many ex-pats here.

Laos produces one beer, and only one and it is delicious. The Lao brewery was set up years ago by Germans. It's one of the best beers in the world and extremely cheap. There's a variety of good food in Vientiane: French, Thai, Lao, Italian, Chinese, Japanese, Lebanese, Indian, etc. Great bread and wine.


Earlier, I had Tina and Don over for a special Christmas Gin & Tonic session. [I met Oregonian Tina here a few years ago. We traveled to Laos together the following year.]




These photos were taken by Judy in Whiting after the first snowfall.

"Your travel life has the essence of a dream. It is something outside the normal, yet you are in it. It is peopled with characters you have never seen before and in all probability may never see again. It brings occasional homesickness, and loneliness, and pangs of longing . . . But you are like the Vikings or the master mariners of the Elizabethan age, who have gone into a world of adventure, and home is not home until you return." Agatha Christie

Thai Lunch with Khun Dtuum

My friend, Dtuum, with whom I meet twice a week to practice Thai and English had her 67th birthday on November 28th. She invited me out to lunch, along with her husband and a friend of hers. The food at the Thai restaurant was delicious - sai ua (spicy Chiang Mai-style sausage, 1), fried pork rinds (took a pass on that), sticky rice, phak bung fai daeng (morning glory stir-fried in garlic and chili), a whole baked fish with tiny chopped up veggies called fish-in-the-garden (bplaa nai suan, it must be), spicy Dtom Yum Goong soup,(2), laap (spicy meat sald with mint leaves, 3), roast pork, raw string beans and basil for munching and a few hot chili sauces. Oh, and Heineken.

Kun Dtuum, สุ ข สั น ต์ วั น เ กิ ด or sùkh-sãn wan kùurt!

"The treachery of the phrase book. . . is that you cannot begin to follow the answer to the question you've pronounced so beautifully -- and worse still, your listener now assumes you're fluent in Swahili." Pico Iver