Jim writes: I arrived in Luang Prabang a couple of days ago. It's a UNESCO World Heritage Site and quite pleasant. I came here 10 years ago when it was much more charming, less touristy. [The fate of any interesting or beautiful destination today.] Even though the town is in a very remote location, it has turned into a hot spot for tourists from other countries. There are hundreds of guest houses, plenty of Western restaurants, art galleries, and various shops. I almost left the day after arriving, but changed my mind. "It took two days to get here. The road is a series of switchbacks through a rugged mountain range. It compares with the Copper Canyon in Mexico and various regions of South America. The northern half of Laos is mostly mountains. Years ago, people got around by boat utilizing the MaeKhong and other rivers. Boat travel is still popular; much shipping is done between China and Thailand in this way.
"LP has surrounded on three sides by water. A smaller river draining into the Mae Khong accounts for this. The town is filled with wats, some of them quite ancient. It's a good place to walk around, which is what I've been doing since my arrival. Nights are quite cool, like in low 50's. Must wear extra clothes in the evening and morning. On the way to LP, I had to spend a night in a Hmong village high in the mountains. It was very cold there. I didn't have the right clothing and was pretty miserable. [Gig adds: It was so cold on the river when Tina and I were leaving LP three years ago on our two-day boat ride down the Maekhong, back to Thailand, we wore every article of clothing we could find in our packs.]"LP is twice as expensive as any other place in Laos and this is peak season. Most of the guest houses were full between Christmas and New Years. The rates jumped up because of this. I see much evidence of greed. In checking various guest houses, I often was given a figure of $30. Then when I hestitated and laughed, they dropped to $10. These same places were charging $5, or less, last winter. Now you see more trucks and motorcycles. Everyone has a mobile phone. Many of the locals are giddy from all the money pouring in. It's a boom time, just as if gold had been discovered.
Here's a link to Photo Album that Jim took last week mostly while in Vang Viang, a popular village mid-way between Vientiane and Luang Prabang. The photos give a really accurate picture of rural life we experience here in SEA. [NOTE: For those of you with dialup, there is an option for photos to be smaller for an easier download.]
"The Laos people think whiskey laced with snakes in a jar is great stuff. They tried to get me to try some. I made it clear there was no way: 'This conversation isn't going anywhere.'"
"NYE parties started the day before. I attended several including two on the 31st that started in the middle of the day. They perform a dance, slowly going around in a circle. I joined them in the dancing. These people really like to party. I lasted a few hours late in the afternoon and then had to excuse myself."
PostScript: Luang Prabang is known for its palaces, temples, and religious statuary. The city has 65 Buddhist wats, recognized for their characteristically steep, overlapping roofs; sculpted wooden doors and shutters; colonnades, mosaics, paintings, and many other architectural details. The Pha Bang, a golden image of the Buddha that is said to have been cast in Ceylon in the 1st century AD, is housed on the Palace grounds. [These monasteries continue to house and educate young men.]
