64th Birthday

VangVieng, Laos - Mar 26, 2008. On his last morning in Laos before returning to Thailand for flight home, Jim was invited by his GuestHouse owner, Ap, to visit his farm about 10 km away. After a lunch of grilled fish and sticky rice, Ap guided Jim up the stream behind his fish pond to some waterfalls. Because of thick jungle, they had to wade in the stream much of the way. Even though on the way back, he slipped off some slippery rocks into a deep hole and bruised his ankle, Jim wrote, "It was a good activity for my 64th birthday." Here are photos of the jungle trek .

while Jim pours on the charm with his James Bond routine, the neighborhood beauty queen is thinking, "This conversation isn't going anywhere."

While back in Vientiane, Jim saw several wedding receptions as the winter months are considered auspicious times for weddings. He would wander by "when everyone was feeling no pain and somebody would wave me in to join them. The music ranged from Lao traditional to Western rock and roll. At one of the receptions, they played 'Super Freak'. A very bizzare song for a wedding, I thought."



Click here for more photos of Vang Vieng.






Now that temperatures are well into the 90s, Jim writes that he's relaxing on the balcony of one of the more high-end hotels like the Vansana VangVieng Resort above where he can find a quiet, cool spot to read.




He also visits the bar at the Babylon Guesthouse where he can access wifi. What a life. I know it's hot there now, and it sure is cold here - a difference of at least 60 degrees.



The use of traveling is to regulate imagination by reality, and instead of thinking how things may be, to see them as they are. -- Samuel Johnson

Every man carries within himself a world made up of all that he has seen and loved, and it is to this world that he returns incessantly, though he may pass through, and seem to inhabit, a world quite foreign to it.

Water Sports in Vang Vieng

Jim writes: It is mid-march and I am back in this town. It is still packed with young backpackers going wild. Young backpackers come here to play. They tube and kayak the river during the day and party by the edge of the river all night.

Click here to see a photo album of backpackers at play.



Click here to see a few photos of local kids having fun in the river, too.



"If every journey makes us wiser about the world, it also returns us to a sort of childhood. In alien parts, we speak more simply, in our own or some other language, move more freely, unencumbered by the histories we carry around at home, and look more excitedly, with eyes of wonder."

Jim's train ride to Phitsanalohk

Here's a photo album of pix Jim took on the train from Chiang Mai to Phitsanalohk, about 333 km. From there he hitched to Khon Kaen, another 333 km.


[Has he ever told you about the time he hopped a freight train in Florida years ago?]


Many people have that fantasy of catching the train that whistles in the night. -- Willie Nelson

Hitchhiking Adventures

As you all know, Jim loves to hitchhike when in Southeast Asia. (Buses are too slow and boring...and predictable.) I've already posted one such adventure this past December 07, when he was on his way from Chiang Mai to Khon Kaen. The two cities are 1629 Km apart through some beautiful countryside in several national parks.

When in Laos in January, he hooked up with a couple guys - from Sweden and Hungary - when hitching from Luang Prabang back to Vang Vieng, a distance of only 230 km but on a pretty rough route "not recommended for nervous persons."



At one point, the truck they were riding in the back of, picked up a couple guys with AK7s. "They appeared friendly, but were armed with AK 47 machine guns. This made us a little edgy. The Hungarian was especially nervous and said, 'These guys are dirt poor. They could point those guns in our faces and it would be all over.' I responded, 'You are right. I hope they are soldiers, not rebels or outlaws. Keep smiling. Let's think positive.' My buddy nodded, saying, 'We just give them everything we have and hope that's enough.' I was not that worried because the driver did not seem stressed. Of course, this could have been a scam involving the driver, but I didn't want to think so."

To see more of Jim's photos and his commentary, click here.

After arriving safely in Vang Vieng, Jim noticed a bar near his guesthouse that had posted a sign, looking for persons to hand out ads for the bar, offering free drinks and food in return to anyone that would do that.

Jim writes, "I walked there and offered to do the job. The Laos bar owner told me if I found a second person to work with me, then she would hire me."[Not sure why it was a two-man job.]

"I wandered around town looking for that second person. Was having no luck, until one guy I tried to recruit said, ' have a bar across the street - I'll give you the same deal. Work for me.' So, I said OK."

"After about an hour of this demanding work, I met some Malaysian guys and led them back to the bar. They invited me to join them and bought me a beer. And then I was offered a third job."

"They wanted a guide that night to check out the town. I agreed to do it. They spoke good English and I was already getting bored with my second job. So, I took them to all my favorite places and they paid for everything. Some of the places were very far off the tourist map... After a few hours, we parted company. I think it was a good experience for all of us." [Now if only he could get his green card.]

I think of about all the different ways we leave people in this world. Cheerily waving goodbye to some at airports, knowing we’ll never see each other again. Leaving others on the side of the road, hoping that we will. — Amy Tan

"Oil, that is - Texas Tea"

One day last month, I learned something about myself. Apparently, when I get in the shower I keep my eyes closed for a while with my face up to the water nozzle with streaming over me. I did not realize I did that. This particular morning, after a soaking of many 10 seconds, I opened my eyes and screamed! There was coal black water gushing out of the shower head and I was coated with what looked like black ink head to toe. I had to try to clean myself up a bit before going downstairs to report this and have Ae, my landlord, check into this. But when I turned to the sink basin and turned on the spigot to try to wash myself off - more black ink! [Now I'm thinking of the X-Files black oil, episodes.] The only "clean" water was sitting in the toilet tank. I sacrificed a towel and wiped myself down a bit.

When I got downstairs, I found out that this was happening everywhere in our guesthouse - apparently the charcoal filter broke in the water reservoir and Ae must have spent all day going around to each room, letting the taps run dry and working with the maid to clean up. [I wish I had taken a photo of me - it would rival the photo of the time I captured my cocker spaniel, Jenny, into the shower stall with me in So.Portland to wash her in tomato paste and juice to get rid of skunk smell. I was covered with what looked like blood - a scene right out of Pyscho.]

When I got to the room at 8pm for the first time since I'd left that morning, I tiptoed back in hoping that the problem had been fixed (why I thought tiptoeing was in order, I'm not sure) and the bathroom was spotless again but I had no electricity - which I soon figured out had just been shut off while Ae was working in my room. Oh yeah, I forgot to mention, Shiaki, the Japanese woman across the hall, let me use her shower to clean up that morning as she had already had her bathroom fixed and it was no longer spouting "oil, that is, black gold, Texas tea...

Jim Visits Burmese Friend

My Burmese friend, Wirot, had been wanting me to spend a night or two at his farm near the border town of Tachilek. The first few times he mentioned it, I discouraged the idea. Told him it was too risky. The repressive military government prohibits tourists from staying in private homes. There are many good reasons not to spend time in Burma, but my primary concern was the welfare of Wirot.

A while back, I read about an American tourist spending a night in a private home. Someone reported this to the local police. Early the next morning, the homeowner was arrested and thrown in jail. The American went to the police station hoping to help his friend. Was told the homeowner "had gone missing."

Last winter, the subject came up again. This time Wirot explained why there would be no problem. Some of his best friends included various high level officials...people like the mayor, the police chief, the immigration chief. So, I finally agreed to give it a shot. Wirot is no dummy. He became a Thai citizen many years ago, lives in Chiang Mai, has a daughter studying engineering at Chiang Mai U., has a son attending the best private high school in CM, makes a living importing antiques from Burma, speaks Burmese, Thai, and English.

My Thai visa expired Feb. 19th. That would be an excellent time to spend time in Burma. That date worked for Wirot. He would already be there. Advised me to call him when I arrived at the bridge on the Thai side at Mae Sai. Thai mobile phone service works ok on Burmese side of the border.

To see more of Jim's photos of his visit to Wirot, click here.

On the 19th, got a late start out of Chiang Mai, but the hitching gods were with me. Left town at 11AM and arrived Mae Sai 3PM. Only took a few rides, no delays. Upon arrival at the bridge, phoned Wirot. He told me to meet him across the bridge. At Burmese Immigration, had a slight snag. Forgot to bring three passport photos. Left my photos back in CM. So, the official wrote something on a slip of paper and advised me to go into Tachilek to get photos made up. In the meantime, the official kept my passport and $10.

If this had been my first time entering Burma, I would never have gone along with this idea. After getting over the bridge, Wirot and his friend, Zau, were waiting. They took me to photo shop. Ten minutes and 60 baht later, Zau lead me back to Immigration Office. Then was issued a Visitor's Pass good for a maximum of 14 days, which allowed me to travel beyond Tachilek to Shan State, an area Gig and I traveled to several years ago.

Apparently, Wirot or Zau spoke to the officials on my behalf because nobody questioned where I would be staying that night. Now safely inside Burma, we headed by motor bike to a meeting place in the town. Here, we sat drinking Chinese beer with some of Wirot's friends, including a guy in charge of the mayor's office. After a short visit there, we proceeded to a tea shop for tea, more beer, and eventually dinner. This tea shop is a hangout for Wirot and his friends. They spend hours there every day.

There are a ton of tea shops in Burma. Although on prior visa runs to Tachilek I had walked around town, the idea of investigating a tea shop never appealed to me. The men hanging out there looked dangerous, a scruffy bunch, gang-like, plotting bad deeds. I would be an easy target, a sacrificial lamb.

Now I was embedded in such a "gang" and party to the plotting. Felt pretty weird, no other foreigners in sight. They had all hightailed it to the bridge. Nobody wants to get trapped in Tachilek for the night. We drank much Chinese tea and beer during the plotting. As it turns out, the focus of conversation is not crime related, unless you consider sports betting to be such. These guys are betting on soccer matches that are going on in Europe. Betting on these games is their passion. In Wirot's case, he knows almost nothing about the teams. He is like a novice better at the race track betting on the basis of a hunch, a horse's name or number.

That evening, we went out to the farm. It was about 5 miles out of town. Wirot's son lives there with wife and baby. My accomodation was a simple cabin near a pleasant stream. The room had an Asian toilet with no shower. A tub of water with pail served as the shower. For electricity, Wirot installed a water powered generator at the stream. It is dry season, so they only run the generator at night. It powers all the lights and TV. When the water level is higher during the wet season, the generator is on all the time. On the farm, a work crew of three grow various fruits and vegetables. It is a very pleasant place to stay, sort of like being at camp.

That night it rained quite hard. In the morning, we went back into town to the tea shop. Had Chinese style fried rice and hot milk for breakfast. Then we drove around town, checked out a fancy casino, went by a golf course, visited a temple. Later in the day, I took a long walk and got caught in a heavy downpour.

We spent the early evening back at the tea shop working on the betting sheets and drinking more tea and beer. Had a lot of delicious Burmese food. They eat much Indian food as well. One dish was curried goat. Not fond of curry or goat, but putting them together was ok. Had some delicious beans the size of lima, but brown in color cooked in a rich sauce.

It rained again the second night. The next morning, Wirot drove me in town and I walked back to the bridge. My little adventure was over. Although it all went well, I was happy to leave Burma. So many poor and unemployed people creates a depressing environment.

Wirot's friend Zau, speaks excellent English. He expressed anger about the poverty and lack of career opportunities in Burma. Told me he unsuccessfully applied to the US for refugee status ten years ago. Back then, the US did not recognize how bad things things were in Burma. Now at 41, he feels very discouraged about his future.
We exchanged email addresses. Told him I would vouch for his character, if he decided to try getting into the US again.

Wirot is one of the lucky ones who managed to get out. Now, his daughter will have a career as an engineer. His younger son plans to attend medical school and become a doctor.

Being poor and living in a poor country is tough enough, but having a bad government makes the situation intolerable. If a person is stuck in Burma, practicing Buddhism and/or betting on soccer matches provides a way out.

Burma, also known as Myanmar, is ruled by a military junta which suppresses almost all dissent and wields absolute power in the face of international condemnation and sanctions. The generals and the army stand accused of gross human rights abuses, including the forcible relocation of civilians and the widespread use of forced labour, which includes children.

This E.B. White quote is perfect for Jim:

I don’t take a night journey on a railroad for the sake of duplicating the experiences and conveniences of my own home: when I travel I like to get into some new kind of difficulty, not just the same old trouble I put with around the house.

Should You Go to Myanmar?

Jim found the information below from this link:
Travel Warning: Uncertain Security

Large anti-government demonstrations taking place throughout the country during September 2007 drew a violent response from authorities, with fatalities reported. The security situation remains uncertain, however, with several bomb explosions reported during January 2008 - all occurring in places frequented by the public. Travellers are advised to exercise extreme caution.

The decision whether or not to travel to Myanmar is best made after an appraisal of pros and cons.

Reasons Not to Go:
Aung San Suu Kyi has asked tourists not to; the government used forced labour to ready tourist-related sights and services; international tourism can be seen as a stamp of approval to the Myanmar government; the government forbids travel to many areas, particularly in areas inhabited by minority groups; it's impossible to visit without some money going to the military junta (roughly 20.00 per visa, 10.00 per departure fee and seven to 10% tax on purchases); and activists claim that tourism dollars fuel government repression directly.

Reasons to Go:
Tourism remains one of the few industries to which ordinary locals have access – in terms of income and communication; authors of subsequent Burma guides say that the vast majority of locals they speak to tell them they want travellers there; human-rights abuses are less likely to occur in areas where the international community is present; the government stopped forcing foreigners to change US$200.00 into government notes upon arrival; the majority of a careful independent traveller's expenses can go into the private sector; and keeping the people isolated from international witnesses to internal oppression may only cement the government's ability to rule.

If You Decide to Go:
In order to maximise the positive effects of a visit among the general populace, while minimising support of the government, follow these simple tactics: stay at private, locally owned hotels and guesthouses; avoid package tours connected with Myanmar Travel and Tours; avoid MTT-sponsored modes of transport, such as most Yangon-Mandalay Express trains, the MTT ferry between Mandalay and Bagan, and Myanmar Airways International (MAI) flights; buy handicrafts directly from the artisans, rather than from government shops; avoid patronising companies involved with the military-owned Myanmar Economic Holdings (companies with solid links to the Tatmadaw or armed forces are often called Myawadi or Myawaddy); write to the Myanmar government and to the Myanmar embassy in your country expressing your views about the human-rights situation there.

Snowy Springtime in Maine

Snowbound in Maine
This link is to Jim's photo album of snowy conditions last spring in April and this spring in March. And here's some more great photos and information on the world's largest snowwoman in Maine.

Here's a recent YouTube video: Richmond Maine snowfall. 100 year old record broken

So far, Portland/Cape Elizabeth has received 90.7 inches of snow, compared to the average winter that sees 72 inches. The snowiest ever was 1970-71 when Portland received 141.5 inches. "We have a ways to go to beat that record," Schwibs said.

Just heard the weatherman say, "Often the heaviest snowfalls are in March." Yikes!