Wednesday, November 28, 2007

Loi Kratong



Loi Kratong is a festival celebrated on the full moon of the 12th month in the traditional Thai lunar calendar, which usually falls in November in our western calendar and took place last weekend in Chiang Mai. “Loi” means to float. “Krathong” is a small raft about a 5-6" in diameter made from a section of banana tree trunk and decorated with elaborately-folded banana leaves, flowers, candles, incense sticks etc. During the night of the full moon, thousands of loi kratong are released on rivers around the country.

The festival was originally for honoring the Buddha with light (the candle on the raft) and thanking the life-giving Goddess of Water. The act of floating away the raft is symbolic of letting go of all one's grudges, anger and mistakes, so that one can start life anew in the coming year.

The Thai tradition of Loi Kratong is celebrated throughout Thailand, with the festivities in Chiang Mai and Ayutthaya being particularly well-known. There are a LOT of fireworks, especially of the noisy kind, at least in Chiang Mai, that went on well into the wee hours both Saturday and Sunday nights. There were also many hundreds of lanterns released around the city - for many hours the night sky was filled with them as it is at New Year celebrations.

. . .once you have traveled, the voyage never ends, but is played out over and over again in the quietest chambers. . . the mind can never break off from the journey. — Pat Conroy

Settling In for the Winter



Am finally settling in for a while, anyway, back at Wanasit Guesthouse. This year my shower is better - hotter and more pressure - than last year. And my room is on the end on the 2nd floor instead of 3rd where it was hotter last winter. And the view? Well, instead of the meditative one of last year, looking out over the city to the largest, oldest chedi, lit at night, the balcony is somewhat blocked by large banana-type trees - I know, cry me a river. It is great to be surrounded by green. [The green-blueish color is not a swimming pool, just a tarp protecting an outside kitchen area.] This year, I have 24-hour Al Jazeera which is even better than BBC World which I also get. The two movie channels are likely to show anything from the fabulous Little Miss Sunshine to the D-level Croco-Dino. One movie channel has a different theme each day of the week - drama, scifi, history, adventure, animation, romance, and comedy. And of course, the cartoon channel shows Yogi Bear, The Jetsons, The Flintstones, Popeye - dubbed in Thai.

My home this year is really a good-sized “bedsit” with bath and balcony. I pick up ice each evening which I keep in a small cooler for beer, water, yogurt, and that's about it for "cooking." And I keep lots of fruit around, too. I picked up a small table which is much more conducive to writing on my laptop than sprawling on my king-sized bed. I have begun typing up my research notes gathered for my book over the last 5+ years and that feels good - altho still a long way from "writing." I am getting ideas, pulling together stories and throwing out bad writing and assorted junk.


I have finished two books since leaving Maine and am on the third. Don't Let's Go to the Dogs Tonight - An African Childhood by Alexandra Fuller. It's a memoir about living with her family n Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe) and later Malawi and Zambia (after being born in England. Someone here told me that a movie was made from this, "Nowhere in Africa", but I haven't checked imdb yet to see if that is so. Very interesting book and I'm hoping she has written another one. The second one is a mystery/novel by Jodi Picoult, Plain Truth, that takes place in an Amish community – an easy read altho I did learn more about the Amish. [I have also read The Pact by her which I liked a little better but guess I won't be reading any more of hers.]

The book I'm on now is another one by Dervla Murphy, South from the Limpopo. In her 60s (?), she biked 6000 miles through the nine provinces of South Africa during dangerous times in the 90s before, during and after Nelson Mandela's election as president. She survives the most harrowing experiences, unimaginable biking conditions, and beastly accommodations - and yet never complains except when she has a bad hangover which is not infrequent. Highly recommended although if you've not read any of her books yet, I would start with Full Tilt (her first trip through Europe and the MidEast) or One Foot in Laos.

Several days last week, we had somewhat heavy rains here - quite unusual for this late in the year and almost festive in its rarity. This is my fifth winter here and I was sprinkled on just once, I think, further north and in the mountains from here. It was very refreshing and cooling. The only downside to the rain was I didn't get clean sheets and towel dried because there wasn't enough constant sunshine to dry them. A first.

"Some journeys take us away from it all, to places no one knows us; some take us to where it seems we've always been. And whether we venture to a new part our country or into an entirely new culture, travel forever changes the boundaries of the world we once knew."

Monday, November 19, 2007

Reuse Recycle



I brought along to read on the plane some unread New Yorkers and local newspapers. I found this story in the Cape Courier. It was submitted by Pat Anderson who works at Cape Recycling & Transfer Station. Scary stuff.

Did you know...

...that Americans throw out enough wood and paper every year to heat five millions homes for 200 years?
...that 65% of an average garden bag is filled with materials that could be either composted (about 45%) or recycled (about 20%)?
...One baby wears about 8000 diapers which can last centuries in a landfill?
...In Maine alone, shoppers use about seven million plastic bags every week?
...recycling one aluminum saves about one cup of gasoline?
...every year Americans create more than 200 million tons of garbage?
...recycling a three-foot high stack of newspapers could save one tree?
...making recycled paper instead of new paper uses 64% less energy and 58% less water?
...there are enough steel wire hangars in U.S. landfills each year to make about 60,000 cars?

Sunday, November 18, 2007

Returning to Friends in Chiang Mai



I arrived in Chiang Mai a few days later and moved in to Wanasit Guesthouse the first night. The next day, I ran into Trudi, a wonderful friend I made last year here, who will only be here a few more weeks so each day we have something planned, if only a meal or long coffee break. Last night, we went to the Saturday Market for a few hours, where we ate some yummy street food - Thai sausage, fresh pineapple, young coconut juice, banama pumpkin treat - and I picked up some rice-bran soap that I love, a small handsewn bag and a few things for my room. Tonight we're meeting for a drink and then going to the Sunday Market.

Look carefully. This is a litter of kittens at Trudi's Guesthouse, Chedi Luang View. After giving birth in an old cardboard carton that was just lying around gathering junk, the mother cat - maaeo in Thai - moved all of her kittens to the bottom of this oil barrel. I took the photo aiming down inside the barrel. No one has seen her clamber out or jump back in but I guess she's managing okay. Need a kitty?



It feels really great to be back in Chiang Mai, to return to familiar places and be greeted with familiar smiles and to witness the changes. I am finally getting over jetlag and the box of books and writing materials I sent myself arrived yesterday. Now I am preparing myself with various documents required to to jump through official hoops to renew my non-immigration/retirement visa, if possible. Every ex-pat I talk to has a different story of failure/success. Rules are to be broken - as long as you end up with a flexible Thai official.

“We have to change our patterns of reacting to experience. For our problems do not lie in what we experience but in the attitude we have towards it." -- Akong Rimpoche.

Arrival in Bangkok





The hotel room Don reserved for me.

His favorite noodle shop.


I arrived in Bangkok at 11pm on November 8. It took me a while (maybe a little fatigue after traveling 26 hours?) to explain that I was looking for a bus that would go near My House Hotel which was where I was meeting Don. When asking the ever-so-helpful Thais at the Information Kiosk where My Home Hotel was, they thought I was trying to get to "my home" rather than a hotel - so much for my rusty Thai! Unbeknownst to me, Don had planned to welcome me at the airport with a necklace of lotus blossums, transport me to the hotel where he had Bia Chaang and cheese in the fridge in the room he'd reserved for me. But...he had the date wrong. His look of shocked surprise when I showed up at the hotel around midnight, 24 hours "early", was priceless. I spent a few days with him while he showed me around the neighborhood near his hotel and SkyTrain stop. Don's favorite "restaurant", actually a small, permanent food stall in inner city Bangkok where we dined one evening.

The only bug in the lengthy travel experience was in Beijing Airport which lacked good signage or any assistance, courteous or otherwise. It took over two hours to get from my arrival gate to my new departure gate due to international transfer problems. Typically, you "should" be able to breeze through to International Departure Transfer. After being told I did not need to complete special arrival and departure documents because I was simply transferring, I was turned away at both Immigration and Customs and told to go find (?) forms to complete. After doing so and handing them to the proper official, they were promptly and unceremoniously dropped into an "out" box without a glance.

Eventually I found the enormous departure terminal and lined up with other departees who were checking in with all their baggage simply for me to get a boarding pass. The Thais, of course, at the ticket counter were very helpful. . . . NOTE: Be forewarned if you are traveling with codeshare partners on your airline, you will NOT be given boarding passes for those foreign airlines when you check in at your departure airport. This happened last year with Delta (and AirFrance) and I thought it was a fluke but it is not. It can be difficult to find the transfer desk. In Beijing there was none for Thai Air which I was transferring to.

This photo is of the orchid corsage, the International Herald Tribune and the chocolate truffle - oh, I guess I ate that - that was given to each passenger on leaving Thai Airways' plane in Bangkok. Can you imagine that kind of service on one of our airlines?

Flying is the only time when responsible adults get to sit down, read, watch films, sleep a bit, and have meals brought continuously, with free alcohol on tap even in the morning. And there is someone there whose it is to attend to your comforts and needs. It’s a time to let go and let somebody else take charge. --

Travel, for too long, has been trivialized by the promoters of popular tours; it deserves better. It is an essential perquisite for a civilized life, perhaps the most effective tool for reducing foolish national pride and promoting a world view. – Arthur Frommer