Saturday, December 22, 2007

Hitchhiking to Khon Kaen



Jim recently hitched from Chiang Mai in northern Thailand to Khon Kaen in Northeastern Thailand to visit friends Narong, who manages a dairy plant, and Noi, who teaches physics. One reason Jim went there was to attend the graduation of their daugher, Aom, from KK University. Here he is with Aom and her cousin, Eeya, who recently visited us in Chiang Mai.


Narong wrote to me, soon after Jim's arrival: Hi Gail, Jim arrived KK Dec 15 safety. Now he have had well care from me. We have cheer with him with 2-3 Changs a day. I and Jim will cheer for you too. Narong [So I guess we know what they were up to.]


The photo above was taken last year when we visited them in their country home. Here's another photo from last year that Jim took of me and Aom and Eeya at their city home.


Jim's two-day trip was filled with "a slew of mini-adventures." Here's a few of them:

"I am not a role model." An off-duty police officer gave me a NASCAR qualifying trip to Phitsanoluk. He told me to fasten my seat belt as soon as I got in the car, but safety was the last thing on his mind. His car was designed and equipped for speed. We weaved through all traffic ahead of us like in a video game. He delighted in tailgating, then passing with just inches to spare. He wore racing gloves. Ironically, this "officer" had two full cans of Leo beer sitting next to him in plain sight. Even when we stopped at a police checkpoint, he did not hide the beer. While off-duty in his police sruiser, this guy felt no obligation to be a role model.

"Hitching Thai-style: The more, the merrier." The next day I was on the highway hitching when six college-age students filed by me with backpacks and camping gear. They stopped up ahead of me. Someone joined them on a motorcycle. After a few minutes, I realized they were trying to hitch a ride. Never in my travels have I seen 6 people trying to hitch together! They were defying all logic. I was curious, so walked up to them. Older guy with the motor bike greeted me, drunk as a skunk. Ignored him and asked the students about taking their picture. They were real cute doing a group wave to attract a ride. It was like being at a ballpark. There we were, three young guys, three young gals, one old drunk, and me trying to wave down a ride.

Within minutes a truck stopped. The students squeezed into the back with their gear. There were several trays of eggs in the back as well. My gregarious Thai pals motioned me to join them. Being the old guy in the group, I was given a seat in the cab. The drunk sadly waved good bye. The driver cruised along about 50 MPH. Some of the crew sat up on the side rails, which made me very nervous. Hit one deep pothole and they would be history.

Eventually we were dropped off and started waving for another ride. They invited me to go camping with them. They were headed to a national park in the mountains. Thought I might do it, but a truck stopped with only enough room for the 6 of them. They wanted to make room for me, but it would have been very cramped. So, I declined to join them and wished them "choke dee"(good luck.) This experience helps show that magical thinking can work, especially in Thailand.

"Any ride is a good ride." Further down the highway, I spotted an old Thai farm tractor chugging along towards me. There were a bunch of children in the back. I waved as they went by and the driver stopped. I was in no hurry, so jumped onboard. It was a first for me. After a mile or two, we stopped at a major intersection. I jumped off, snapped a picture, and thanked them.

"Don't hitch and drink." It was early afternoon when I got another ride. This person was very jolly and wanted me to buy some beer and perhaps stay in his home that night. It was early for me but said OK. Bought a couple bottles of Beer Chaang. Before I could open a bottle for him, he shoved it in his mouth and removed the cap with his teeth! Within a few minutes, we were at his home, which was near the entrance to a national park, probably the park where my young hiking mates were headed.

We sat on floor mats in front area of the home. There were some chickens running loose in the yard. Various members of the family showed up and had some of the beer. Then the guy suggested I buy three more big bottles. Apparently, they were ready to settle into a major session and I would be funding it. The first five beers would only be the tip of the iceberg. In a couple of hours, word would be out and the whole village would be at the house drinking themselves silly. Politely made it clear that I had to be moving on. Then picked up my pack and walked out to the highway to continue my journey.

"Hitchhiking is a cumulative experience, a never-ending happening of unknown factors which contribute, with a little luck, to a memory of what real traveling is all about -- not just the chance to say that you've been to a place, but the feeling that one time, somewhere, even if only for an instant, you felt like you had become a part of the land through which you were traveling." -- Ken Welsh