Saturday, February 28, 2009

Anne's Trip to India, Jan-Feb 2009

Here are three photo albums from India that were taken by our friend, Anne. She went to Nepal next to visit friends she made there last year and is now on a 9-day trek, north of Kathmandu in a region called Langtang.

Feb 9, 2009
India Feb-09
Yesterday I arrived in a town called Bharatpur, and today visited Keoladeo National Park, which is considered one of the world's premier birding sites. No, I'm not really a birder, but happy to be near the forest. I hired an old Sikh bicycle rickshaw guy to take me through the park and he pointed out and named the birds for me. The number of birds was impressive! Literally thousands and thousands of herons, ibises, egrets, storks, ducks geese, etc, and multiple varieties of each species. Also antelope, deer, monkeys, turtles, and even a python and a monitor lizard. India is getting better at each stop, or maybe it's just me. The people are kinder the farther I get from Delhi. The food has been good, but not spectacular. I stayed for 2 nights in a cute town called Bundi and will stay here another, then head towards Agra and the Taj. Have been meeting some interesting travelers. There are animals everywhere! Bundi was crawling with monkeys, and yesterday morning one came climbing down the tree in the courtyard of the guesthouse while I was eating breakfast. The other night they raided the kitchen, opened the fridge, and stole a big bunch of bananas. The streets are full of cows, goats, buffalo, and pigs, not to mention dogs. And it's not uncommon to see people driving a herd of camels as you're driving around, though they're not in the towns!

Feb 14
Jodhpur, Udaipur, Bundi
I've decided to take a safari in Corbett National Park, which is a tiger refuge. It's expensive, but I met some people who did one and loved it. I'll stay 2 nights in some tent built on a platform and do 2 1/2 days of safari.

Feb 17
Jaisalmer, India
Jaisalmer is a desert city in western India, not far from the Pakistan border. It's famous for its fort, which looks pretty amazing springing out of the flat desert. Because there is still a large population of people living inside the fort, it is in danger of collapsing from overuse. Lonely Planet advises tourists to choose a hotel outside the fort so as not to place any additional burden on the drainage systems.

This city is very different from other places where i've been, in India, in a good way. There are still people who hassle you a bit to buy their stuff, they still stare, but they don't follow you until you practically have to yell at them to leave you alone, as it was in Delhi. It's also interesting because it's in the desert and the buildings are very old and beautiful.

Yesterday I went on a camel safari for a half day. most people camp in the desert on these safaris for a night or 2, but i can camp in Oregon, right? We left at 2 pm with 2 young German girls and a young Swiss guy also and took a jeep about 60 k into the desert, stopping at a village on the way where one of the guides lived. He was a very amiable guy named Ramadan, and had about 8 kids who swarmed around us asking for "pen, rupee, chocolate" like all the kids here do (and as they often do in Nepal also). They enjoyed having their pictures taken, and I'm looking forward to seeing how they turned out. We ended up having to doctor a little 2-3 year old girl's forehead which had an enormous goose egg and gash where she had fallen earlier that morning. They had washed the blood off and plastered a piece of paper from a cigarette pack on it, and it had dried on. I had some baby wipes, and the girls had some antiseptic spray and bandaids, so we gently got the paper off and fixed her up as well as we could, shooing the swarming flies away as we worked. Then they tied a headband around it to hold it in place. They offered us tea, and the girls accepted, but the young guy and I declined--I am not taking any chances anymore after having spent about 4 days being sick when i first arrived here.

Then we continued on and stopped a bit further down the road where the camels were waiting for us. We each had our own camel, and we rode them about an hour and a half or two (with one stop in a village to buy camel food) until we came to some sand dunes, where they were going to camp. We climbed up the dunes to enjoy the sunset and returned to the camp. The same tour co. had another group there that was on a 3 day safari, so we joined with them for dinner--the camel drivers had even brought some beer along, and I totally enjoyed my warm Kingfisher beer with dal baht (rice with lentil stew) and a chappati. Then one of the guys threw some sweet potatoes into the fire to roast for dessert, the camel drivers sang, using the water jugs as drums with the belching camel noises in the background. The sky was full of stars and it was fun to talk and joke around with the group until we left to come back about 9. They had a jeep to take the swiss guy and me back but the girls stayed for one night. We saw deer in the desert on the way back, and after we got onto the highway we had to dodge donkeys and cattle but got back around 10. It was a highlight of the trip so far. Nice and peaceful in the desert--a welcome change.

This afternoon I'm taking a train to Jodphur for a day or two, where I'll be staying in a homestay.


Anne wrote to us not to go running off to India without talking to her first as she had mixed results on her trip.


Friday, February 27, 2009

Phra-Dhatu Chedi Luang - Grand Pagoda



This chedi or pagoda (religious shrine) is in a large wat, Wat Chedi Luang, in the old city. It is the tallest one in Thailand and was constructed in 1391 AD. The top of it is what we see from our guesthouse balcony. It lost the top thirty meters of its height in due to damage from a mammoth earthquake in the 17th century.


Beautiful Wat









Here are some recent photos Jim took of another impressive wat on the edge of the old city.

Hare Krisha Hare Rama

I mean no disrespect to these folks, but couldn't resist injecting some humor. I believe everyone is entitled to believe in whatever they want, as long it doesn't hurt others. I go to the local Hare Krishna Temple on Tuesday nights for a [free] chant and [free] meal. Here are a few photos I took at the temple.


"Dear family, these folks treat me really well. Have made a lot of new friends here. If I sign over everything I own, they promise to take care of me for the rest of my life. The boss guru is a nice guy. He wants to give me a new name, shave my head, give me a white robe, and send me to India. Will let you know what I decide to do. Jimmy"

Later. . .
Still negotiating with the guru. Don't have much hair left anyway, so shaving my head is no big deal. I'm ok with wearing a robe. However, I want the saffron one. He is offering white. Also, am asking guru to pay expenses for trip to India. Have never been there. Will go on a trial basis only. Guru is suggesting I collect money at the local airport to finance my trip. We have a few other things to iron out, before it's a done deal.

Our Day with Daeng

Feb 13, 2009
Jim wrotes about our day with Daeng and included three photo albums.


Part 1. The Feast

Daeng calls us Uncle and Auntie. She and her mother invited us to their home recently. Daeng's mother prepared a delicious Thai meal. We had rice, stir-fried vegetables, and tom ka gai soup, which is tom yum (but not as HOT!) with coconut milk added to the broth. She included prawns in the soup. Great idea. Tom yum is characterized by its distinct hot and sour flavors, with fragrant herbs generously used. The basic broth is made of stock and fresh ingredients such as lemon grass, kaffir lime leaves, galangal, shallots, lime juice, fish sauce, tamarind, and crushed chili peppers. It was an incredible feast!


Part 2. Darapirom Palace Museum

After lunch, Daeng invited us to go with her to visit the palace of Chiang Mai Royal Princess Dararasmee in Mae Rim in the next town. She took us in her car and served as tour guide. It was well worth seeing. Unfortunately, we could only take photos outside. "This Lanna-style mansion was the last home of Jao Dararasamee, daughter of a late-19th-century ruler of Chiang Mai and the favorite wife of King Chulalongkorn. The low-eaved and galleried building has been restored and furnished with many of the princess's antiques, including clothes she designed herself. It's a living museum of 19th-century Lanna culture and design, well worth the 8 mi journey from Chiang Mai."

Part 3. Royal Wat, Mae Rim

After touring the palace, Daeng showed us the royal wat nearby. These are always much more elaborate than a "regular" wat, probably because they are financed at least in part by the Royal Family. The temple had features and statues I had not seen.

Thursday, February 26, 2009

The Moat




Here are some photos that Jim took while cycling around the moat yesterday.

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

Liam's Suan Dok Mai

Plus Jim's Japanese Film Debut

Jim and I took a bike ride several miles outside of town last week and discovered SuanDokMai, a lovely, quiet, quite expensive GuestHouse, run by a Belgian family serving genuine Belgian food - about which, other than waffles, we are still clueless. We were invited to come out anytime to swim or just hang out for the day with no obligation to have a meal there. The GH has only been open a few months with few guests yet - it's a bit isolated and I think the family is looking for some activity out there.

I soon emailed them that a friend (Trudi) and I wanted to come out on the next Sunday for a swim and lunch and they said, "Great - but how about coming out Saturday also to be in a promo (not porno) film that is being made that day?" We said sure, so Jim and I biked out there again and ate some complimentary Belgian waffles for the benefit of the film crew. This could be our big film comeback (after the disastrous Alexander) - especially since Jim was also asked to be an extra in a new Japanese movie, The Pool, in which a few scenes were being shot the next day at the Chiang Mai airport. So for five hours of work, a free lunch, all the bottled water he could drink plus 1000 Baht (about $30), Jim has made his debut in Japanese film.

The next day, Trudi and I went back to the GH and spent the day swimming, reading, talking, having lunch and just generally enjoying the peace and quiet of the birds in the countryside.

And this, just in, is the promotional video at SuanDokMai. Several shots of Jim and me are near the end.