Gig's first week In Chiang Khong

A few nights ago we spent talking with Bernhard, an ICU nurse from Austria, who began traveling on his motorcycle in '09, recently arriving here after shipping his bike from Kathmandu to BKK.
Here's his blog, A Dream Come True! which has some wonderful photos. (I used Google translator so the text is a bit rough.) In the last year and a half, he's traveled from Austria to Croatia, Bosnia, Montenegro, Albania, Greece, Turkey, Iran, Pakistan, India (2X), Nepal (2X) to Thailand. He's off now to Laos, Cambodia and Australia. (His BMW at 1000cc's exceeds Vietnam's size allowance. Not sure why.)

Last month in CM, I tried acupuncture on my knee (still swollen from surgery, preventing me from regaining muscle tone and causing pain on stairs and when lifting my leg.) It felt good...but only lasted about 30 minutes. (Photo shows moxibustion heat treatment to stimulate micro-circulation.) I then saw a Thai knee specialist who drained 15ccs of fluid from my knee, giving me the first relief I'd had since August - miraculous! Even tho swelling is gradually returning, along with some of the pain I am now hopeful of a solution.

A previous hangout - you can see we go to the finest cafes. We're wrapping up a week at the Thai-style Baan-Fai GH where Jim spent the last month. Very homey, run by a school principal and his wife with her Thai textile shop next door. There's a small cafe serving great coffee, free wifi, an outdoor multi-level deck area plus an open-air common area where we have a few beers each night before foraging for dinner.

Not many food vendors to choose from in this small town - except on Fri and Sat nights. Last Sat. we brought home a smorgasbord of sticky rice, fried chicken, a yummy tender pork dish I didn't recognize (sort of like pulled pork or pigs feet), sai-uua (spicy northern-style sausage) and a cold crunchy delicious veggie dish made from shredded coconut, papaya, bamboo and who knows what else. [If I can't ID the food group, I at least check for no coagulated blood (looks like dark tofu chunks), intestines, chicken feet, ungutted fish or too many chilies.] On Sundays, there's slim pickings; we ended up with plain rice, an unknown meat (heart?) batter-fried, an unknown pickled green veggie concoction (way too hot/spicy which we had to rinse before eating), bland soup with carrots, bamboo and an unknown tofu-like item (almost like custard) into which we dumped the veggies which enhanced edibility. This coming Sunday, we're eating earlier!

Loi Kratong Parade

Above, my friend Gade posing with Loi Kratong Parade participants. She owns a lovely guesthouse and cafe, in Chiang Mai, Elliebum, with the best coffee in town! Here are a few photos from the celebration of Gade, Trudi and Gig with Yi Peng decorations and some of Yi Peng Parade.

The Tale of Khun Chang Khun Phaen

On November 17, I went with my friend, Gade, to a reading and lecture by authors, Pasak Phongpaichit and Chris Baker, about their new book The Tale of Khun Chang Khun Phaen.

Taught throughout schools in Thailand, this is the first study/translation of Khun Chang Khun Phaen in English.

Khun Chang Khun Phaen (Thai: ขุนช้างขุนแผน) is an epic Thai poem which originated from a folktale and is one of the most notable works in Thai literature. Chang and Phaen are the leading male characters, and "Khun" was a junior feudal title given for male commoners. The story is a classic love triangle, ending in high tragedy. Khun Phaen (dashing but poor) and Khun Chang (rich but ugly) compete for the lovely Wanthong from childhood for over fifty years. Their contest involves two wars, several abductions, a suspected revolt, an idyllic sojourn in the forest, two court cases, trial by ordeal, jail, and treachery. Ultimately the king condemns Wanthong to death for failing to choose between the two men. The poem was written down in the early nineteenth century, and a standard printed edition first published in 1917–1918. Like many works with origins in popular entertainment, it is fast-moving and stuffed full with heroism, romance, sex, violence, rude-mechanical comedy, magic, horror, and passages of lyrical beauty. In Thailand, the story is universally known. Children learn passages at school, and the poem is a source of songs, popular sayings, and everyday metaphors. The poem is also controversial because of its male bias and violence. For more from wikipedia, click here.

2011 World's Top Retirement Havens

Super Affordable

1. Nicaragua -- specifically Leon, Granada, and San Juan del Sur. Nicaragua is more attractive than ever for one important reason: It's a super cheap place to live. I've been a fan of this misunderstood country since my first visit nearly 20 years ago. Property values, especially for beachfront property along the Pacific, reached bubble status last decade. Today prices are more realistic and more negotiable. In the meantime, the cost-of-living has remained seriously low. And last year Nicaragua inaugurated a new and improved foreign retiree residency program. For all these reasons, 2011 is the time to put this country at the top of your super-cheap overseas retirement list.

2. Ecuador -- specifically Cuenca. Ecuador is well established as an affordable retirement choice. A friend calls it, "the cheapest place in the world where you'd want to live". This expat-friendly country also has a pleasant climate.

3. Colombia -- specifically Medellin. This moderately priced country is cultured and sophisticated. To live an expat-standard lifestyle in Colombia, I think you would need to spend more than you would in Nicaragua or Ecuador. Real estate, on the other hand, especially in certain areas of this country, can be a screaming bargain.

4. Thailand -- specifically Chiang Mai. This exotic and adventure-filled country can be, in parts, extraordinarily affordable and even peaceful.

Moderately Priced

1. Panama -- specifically Las Tablas, Boquete, and Panama City. Panama City has the best infrastructure in all of Central America, but it no longer qualifies as super-cheap. Other places in the country can be affordable. But the cost-of-living and of real estate in the capital and other more developed parts of the country has risen to the point where I wouldn't include Panama on our list of bargain havens.

2. Uruguay -- specifically Montevideo. Uruguay is safe and stable with a good standard of living.

3. Argentina -- specifically Buenos Aires and Mendoza. This is another country that used to qualify as super-cheap but has grown steadily more expensive. Still, Argentina has much to offer in the way of lifestyle.

4. Belize -- specifically Ambergris Caye and the Cayo. Ambergris Caye has white sand and the best diving in the Caribbean. This area isn't absolutely cheap, but it can be relatively affordable compared with the cost-of-living and of owning beachfront real estate on other Caribbean islands. Elsewhere in Belize can be far more affordable than Ambergris. The Cayo, for example, is a beautiful frontier where you can escape from the real world and create your own future. It's also an English-speaking country.

5. Malaysia -- specifically Kuala Lumpur and Penang. This is the most user-friendly and expat-friendly choice in Asia. Malaysia is the only country in this part of the world that makes it relatively easy for a foreigner to establish legal full-time residency.

Modern Parable

Originally appeared in WallStreetSurvivor.com, written by Mark Berger

A Japanese company (Toyota) and an American company (Ford) decided to have a canoe race on the Missouri River. Both teams practiced long and hard to reach their peak performance before the race.

On the big day, the Japanese won by a mile.

The Americans, very discouraged and depressed, decided to investigate the reason for the crushing defeat. A management team made up of senior management was formed to investigate and recommend appropriate action. Their conclusion was the Japanese had 8 people rowing and 1 person steering, while the American team had 7 people steering and 2 people rowing.

Feeling a deeper study was in order, American management hired a consulting company and paid them a large amount of money for a second opinion. They advised, of course, that too many people were steering the boat, while not enough people were rowing.

Not sure of how to utilize that information, but wanting to prevent another loss to the Japanese, the rowing team's management structure was totally reorganized to 4 steering supervisors, 2 area steering superintendents and 1 assistant superintendent steering manager. They also implemented a new performance system that would give the 2 people rowing the boat greater incentive to work harder. It was called the 'Rowing Team Quality First Program,' with meetings, dinners and free pens for the rowers. There was discussion of getting new paddles, canoes and other equipment, extra vacation days for practices and bonuses. The pension program was trimmed to 'equal the competition' and some of the resultant savings were channeled into morale boosting programs and teamwork posters.

The next year the Japanese won by two miles.

Humiliated, the American management laid-off one rower, halted development of a new canoe, sold all the paddles, and canceled all capital investments for new equipment. The money saved was distributed to the Senior Executives as bonuses.

The next year, try as he might, the lone designated rower was unable to even finish the race (having no paddles,) so he was laid off for unacceptable performance. All canoe equipment was sold and the next year's racing team was out-sourced to India.
Sadly, The End.

And here's something else to think about: Ford has spent the last thirty years moving all its factories out of the US, claiming they can't make money paying American wages. TOYOTA has spent the last thirty years building more than a dozen plants inside the US. The last quarter's results: TOYOTA makes 4 billion in profits while Ford racked up 9 billion in losses. Ford folks are still scratching their heads, and collecting bonuses.

Performance Art and Release of Suu Kyi in Burma

Last week, I went with Gade to Chiang Mai University for the Performance Art piece of the 12th Asiatopia International Performance Art Festival, held this year in Chiang Mai instead of Bangkok. I had read about performance art recitals but had never attended. (I looked up the definition: a form of art in which the artist creates a live performance, often using a variety of media.) A variety of media is an understatement.

Click here to see photos of a few performers and my captions.

Most of the performers were from Thailand, the Philippines, and Burma although one from Belgium (a country relocated in Asia?). It was held outside with the audience sitting on the lawn, very close to the performer as there was interaction with us as well. The first one was a woman from Burma, dressed all in white, very delicate and immediately reminding me of Aung San Suu Kyi. She knelt down and began draping light aluminum chains around her arms, legs and body and locking each one with a tiny padlock and key. Then she knelt in front of various members of the audience, offering them the opportunity to unlock the chains and, when they did so, she put the freed chain on them and locked it. It was very moving and especially poignant as it was the day that 65-year old political heroine of Burma, Aung San Suu Kyi, was released from house arrest after 20 years. When her performance was over, I knew this was going to be a tough act to follow.

And indeed, the rest of the acts were tres bizarre. Gade explained the last act to me as there was a lot of symbolism about Thai politics that I was unfamiliar with, but we were clueless as to the point/symbolism/meaning/whatever of the other acts. We asked afterwards for some enlightenment but you know those artists - they always tell you it's up to you to interpret it.

Loi Krathong Festival in Chiang Mai

1st photo - we're at the Ping River filled with Loi Kratong floats set in the water by residents of Chiang Mai. 2nd photo shows a close-up of what some of the floats look like. 3rd photo shows lanterns of light set off throughout the city.


This last weekend was a 3-day celebration, Loi Krathong, second only to Thai New Year in importance and exuberance. It takes place on the evening of the full moon of the 12th month in the traditional Thai lunar calendar.

Loi Krathong was originally designed to honor the original Buddha, Siddhartha Guatama. Apart from venerating the Buddha with light (the candle on the raft), the act of floating away the candle raft is symbolic of letting go of all one's grudges, anger and sins, so that one can start life afresh on a better foot. Many Thai believe that floating a raft will bring good luck, and they do it to honor and thank the Goddess of Water.




Here are some photos from the celebration and Gade at the YiPeng Parade. Like many Asian festivals, this one is is accompanied by many fireworks, on and off for several days and nights.

'Loi' literally means 'to float,' while 'kratong' refers to the lotus-shaped receptacle which can float on the water. The kratong is made of banana leaves or bread (biodegradeable in the water). A kratong contains food, flowers, betel nuts, more flowers, joss sticks (incense), a candle and coins. Thousands of people gather along canals and rivers. With kratong in hands, they light the candle, put some coins in the kratong and silently make a wish, and carefully place their kratongs in the water and release them to the current. They watch intently as the float drifts silently downstream, hoping that the candle will not go out. Its flame is said to signify longevity, fulfillment of wishes and release from sins.

On Sunday night, I went to the Ping River with Gade and another friend of hers who works for an NGO helping Burmese women get an education. There were tons of people lining the streets, selling beautifully decorated floats for 50 cents plus the normal street food, people sending off paper lanterns, very special celebratory feeling everywhere. All the homes and shops along the side streets and lanes inside the moat were lined with small oil lamps and candles. We set our kratongs floating off into the river and hoped for the best.

I wish our culture had a festival like this - it really is lovely.

Jim's Month in Chiang Khong, border town to Laos

Noodle soup shop and fishing on the MaeKhong

Friday morning market in Chiang Khong

Another day on the MaeKhong

Hill Tribe people shopping for clothing on market day








Bananas and Papayas There are many varieties of bananas grown in northern Thailand. Three of the more common ones in northern Thailand are gluayhom (fragrant banana) most like the "normal" ones we eat from Shaw's at home; short fat ones, gluaynahmwa (sticky and sweet), and gluaykai (egg bananas) which are smaller and thinner. (I translate literally as "banana eggs" which locals think is hilarious. A "hand" of bananas, around 12 or more, sell anywhere from 5B to 20B (75 cents).

Hitching from Chiang Mai to Mae Sai to Chiang Khong

After spending a week in Chiang Mai with Gig, Jim headed over to Chiang Khong where it is cooler and quieter. Gig had planned to spend November over there as well, but ended up staying in town and visiting with friends as there was a lovely cooling trend. She's taking a bus from CM to join Jim in CK Thursday, November 25th.














My visit to a Lahu hill tribe market.

Mae Sai to Chiang Khong

North from Hat Yai to Chiang Mai

After sending Gail off to Hat Yai Airport in a truck taxi, I jumped on a northern bound train. Five days later, I joined her in Chiang Mai after some very hard traveling.




During the next two days, I covered a lot of ground. Met many good people.





North from Hat Yai Train station

Hitching north to Ayutthaya from Phatthalung 21-22 Oct 2010

My visit to a big Thai ceramic shop.

My visit to a Lahu hill tribe market.

World Eating Habits from Lonely Planet

See what families around the world spend on their weekly food budget - and what their diet looks like. Pictured here is from Germany, a family of four, who spend 375.39 Euros or $500.07.


Click here to view the photos from the US, Italy, Mexico. Poland, Egypt, Ecuador, Bhutan, and Chad. Note not only their food choices and money spent but the number of family members being fed.

United States: The Revis family of 4, Sure hope most American families eat more fresh fruits vegetables and less junk food than this family.) Food expenditure for one week: $341.98.

Italy: The Manzo family of 5, spends 214.36 Euros or $260.11.

Mexico: The Casales family of 5, spends 1,862.78 Pesos or $189.09.

Poland: The Sobczynscy family of 5, spends 582.48 Zlotys or $151.27.

Egypt: The Ahmed family of 12, spends 387.85 Egyptian Pounds or $68.53.

Ecuador: The Ayme family of 9, spends $31.55.

Bhutan: The Namgay family of 13, spends 22493 ngultrum or $5.03.

Chad : The Aboubakar family of 6, spends 685 CFA Francs or $1.23.

Trip from Singapore to Thailand, Stopover in Penang

Jim always takes me to the top of line bars for happy hour.

After flying Boston-Seattle-Tokyo-Singapore, then a train to Kuala Lampur to Penang Penang in Malaysia, we were ready for a break. Thanks to Keithie, we flew Business Class on the 11-hr leg from US-Japan.

We have visited Penang many times. Some of the best food in the world is there!
Penang Day 1
Penang - Little India
Penang - Chinese Neighborhood
Penang - A Salute to Bicycles

Jim's Visit with Don in England

Left, Jim on Brighton Beach

Below, Donald runs into an old school chum at local pub he and Jim visited.


Day 1 England 23 Sept 2010
Day 2
Day 2 sunset and Day 3 morning at Brighton Beach
Day 4
Day 5 Ferry to Dieppe, France


















Took a train from Dieppe to Rouen, arriving in the evening. With no guidebook or map, took a while to book a room. Next day, the train to Paris took longer than I expected. Arrived late in the day, walked a couple of miles to a hostel near the Nord train station - $60 for bed in dorm room!
Next morning took train out to Charles De Gaulle Airport only to find my United flight to Chicago had been canceled. Was flying stand-by and flights the next two days were overbooked. Did not want to spend another night in Paris, so jumped on a train to Brussels, Belgium. Had another late night in a strange city with no guide or map. Did eventually find a hostel, which was fine.Next day, took a train to the airport and managed to get on flight to Chicago. From there, no seats on flights to Portland or Boston, but there was one United flight departing to Ft. Myers leaving shortly. Phoned in a reservation and got wait-listed. At the last minute, was given the one and only empty seat on the plane. Arrived Ft Myers about 9:30PM. Good friends, Linda and Mark Johnson, provided me the sanctuary I desperately needed. Had an excellent visit with them then flew to Boston and trained it back to Maine.